Valpariso! Where to begin... Two days ago we left Vina De Mar in quite peculiar fashion (I will spare you the details as moms and dads reading this will likely have heart attacks) and have since found refuge in Valpo (cool Chilean slang for our current home). Just for some context, Valpo is actually a UNESCO heritage site and here´s why:
"Nicknamed “The Jewel of the Pacific”, Valparaíso was declared a world heritage site based upon its improvised urban design and unique architecture. In 1996, the World Monuments Fund declared Valparaíso’s unusual system of funicular elevators (highly-inclined cable cars) one of the world’s 100 most endangered historical treasures. In 1998, grassroots activists convinced the Chilean government and local authorities to apply for UNESCO world heritage status for Valparaíso. Valparaíso was declared a World Heritage Site in 2003. Built upon dozens of steep hillsides overlooking the Pacific Ocean, Valparaíso boasts a labyrinth of streets and cobblestone alleyways, embodying a rich architectural and cultural legacy. Valparaíso is protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site."
Thanks Wikipedia! The real scoop is that first we wake to roosters crowing. Apparently (like most of the other Valpo residents) the roosters have had a long night of partying, as they don´t get in gear until around 10am. If they don´t wake you, the gas mans rhythms surely will. Everything here from the shower to the stove is powered by propane. Therefore a truck, who´s cab is filled with tanks, comes whizzing by with a guy furiously drumming a mad rhythm on a tank, as he hangs precariously off the back. I usually dance at this point. We have switched from couch surfing back to a hostel. The place we are currently in is one of the best hostels we have ever stayed in. As it says above, Valpo is a maze on a hill. It fails to mention that a massive part of the culture here is the graffiti art. It is a split between stupid crap that degrades the cityscape and the most beautifully bizarre and powerful street art we have ever seen. We have spent the past few days wandering the streets exploring this and the truly unique arts culture of this city. Late in the day and well into the evening, we have seen incredible street performers. All in all, Valpo is a must see. We are still crippled by our lack of Spanish and gringo looks, but find refuge in hostels and on the gringo trail (viewpoints, monuments, ect). We like it here so much that we might stay another day or two before heading to Pichelmu. Pichelmu is a small surfing community about 4 hours (via bus) south. If the surf is good, we will likely stay for a 3 or 4 days. Our tentative plans after that are to keep moving south. Pucon(an outdoor rec hub with everything from rafting to volcanoes), then Chiloe (apparently a nice place for simple day treks), then to Porte Monte. This is where you catch (fingers crossed that it is operational) the 4 day ferry through the Fjords to Patagonia. Then we will cross into Argentina, probably fly to Buenos Aires, move north to Inqanasa Falls (wrong spelling I am sure) and then move through Bolivia to Peru. We might make Lima our final destination. There is more to say, but this has been enough reading for now. We love you all and though we are having a good trip, miss everyone (especially Misha). PS, it is taking all our willpower not to adopt one of the thousands of stray Perros(dogs).
Keep the responses and updates from your hemisphere coming. Lots of love,
Tai and Kasia
PPS, pictures are coming eventually, we promise.
Moving too fast without experiencing the daily straggles of the local people might be something what you might later regret. The traveling cost will probably skyrocket, all these entry fees, bus tickets and caring belongings might drain financial and physical resources. The blog mentioned about your peculiar departure from Vina De Mar. It ignites my vivid imagination. Lack of information further fuels the parental worries. Consequently I will not say much to Misia about it. In the hind side I can conclude that the Couch Surfing sounds little too good to be true and might be a magnet for some deviant characters. Residing in hostels has definitely advantages and the cost of staying longer usually cost less per night. Furthermore hostels provide opportunity to travel with others and like any larger group this provides more security and fun. We all impatiently are waiting for some pictures. Sunday Feb.6 in Nanaimo, - no rain but fog and wind. Misia and I spend half an hour on the Nanaimo highest view point surrounded by fog and exposed to strong wind. Misia behavior was quit unusual, presumably wind and fog prompted her to hunt intensely. Thanks to my intervention the resident rabbit is alive. She was so close to get it. Her great disappointment ended with a look “What hove you done …… ………?”
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